Put the chicken, vegetables, bay leaves, cardamom, and half the salt and pepper in a snug-fitting pan. Pour in enough water to cover, then bring to a gentle simmer. Cook the chicken for 1 hour, making sure it stays submerged in the water throughout.

Lift the chicken out of the liquid and set aside until cool enough to handle. Use a slotted spoon to remove and discard the vegetables and aromatics. Reserve the chicken broth.

While waiting for the chicken to cool, cook the spaghetti until al dente (still with bite) according to the pack instructions. Drain, reserving a cup of pasta water.

Remove the skin and bones from the chicken, and shred the meat with your hands. Set aside. Heat the oven to 180°C/160°C fan/gas 4.

Add the milk, cream, nutmeg, flour, butter, and reserved pasta water to the chicken broth. Whisk thoroughly, then season with the remaining salt and pepper.

Put the pan back over low heat and gradually bring to a simmer, stirring regularly. Cook until the sauce thickens and the taste of raw flour disappears – it should still have some body but be thinner than a regular bechamel. Stir in half the parmesan.

Lay half the cooked spaghetti over the base of a large baking dish, then cover with the shredded chicken, half the remaining parmesan, and half the mozzarella.

Cover with the sauce (about 3 large ladlefuls should do it), then lay over the rest of the pasta. Pour over the rest of the sauce, then scatter the remaining cheeses on top.

Bake the negresco in the oven for 30-45 minutes until golden on top and bubbling at the edges. Leave to stand for 5 minutes before serving.